We started the day early as we had decided to try to walk the whole way from Padron into Santiago in one go. We'd been uncertain right up to yesterday morning about that stage. It's quite long, over 20kms, and gets increasingly hilly as you get closer to Santiago which makes it even more difficult. However, we decided to go for it. If we hadn't, we would probably have lost contact with a number of people that we met, and got friendly with, who we knew were definitely aiming to walk in yesterday.
We'd both had a interrupted sleep at the hotel. It was an interesting building and looked impressive, but it was also noisy. It seemed that anytime anyone in the building moved it created creaks and bumps that echoed all around the house, very strange, but meaning that both of us had awakened several times during the night. We also awoke at about 6:30 to see that it was raining, and raining quite heavily. We'd had a little rain yesterday afternoon, but only slight, this morning it was serious looking. We left the hotel at 7:00am, creeping out as everyone else seemed to be still asleep, we'd paid our bill yesterday as we knew that we would be leaving early, out to a cafe we knew would be open. There we had a good breakfast and we hit the road at 7:30.
It was raining enough to require ponchos from the start, this was the first rain ever that we'd had in Galicia. We have had none at all on our previous visits, and Galicia is renowned for its rain.
Onwards, a few slopes and small hills. Barbara's lower back was beginning to ache somewhat, she'd had some foot trouble previously due to a twisted ankle but that was now fine. On to the next rest break where some people ordered sandwiches for lunch which, when they arrived, were enormous.
Onwards again, but this time the hills were getting steeper and more fiendish and seemed to be never ending, Barbara's back was aching even more.
All along the way we'd been passing distance marker stones and these were steadily counting down the distance. We'd got down to one showing about 6.4 kms when, suddenly, the distance plates were no longer there.
We initially though that they may have been taken as "souvenirs" but later came to the conclusion that the route had been changed and the original distance scale didn't apply now. Coinciding with this lack of distance markers came a total loss of any refreshment places. The signing had also become less reliable, in some places signs were missing, or were just plain confusing.
Which way now?
As we arrived in front of the cathedral we were greeted by a hearty French couple who we had seen fairly often before but never got to know as such, but they gave us a great welcome. It was still raining, and being so late in the day not many other pilgrims were arriving so we returned to the hotel to get showered changed and have a good rest. Later, we went out for something to eat and then returned for a long sleep.
No more walking tomorrow.
All of the above refers to Friday, it's now Sunday and time to catch up.
Since Friday we've had time to rest, catch up with friends; say goodbye to most of them as they've now left Santiago on their way home, and we've made our arrangements for our journey home. We're heading out for a couple of nights at the coast in Baiona before flying back to Manchester on Wednesday. We've also been to the pilgrim office to claim or certificates.
This afternoon I went on a fascinating guided tour of the rooftop of the cathedral, in the rain of course, it's still not stopped for very long.
By the way, Barbara's back is now much improved having had time to rest it.
Overall it's been a very good Camino, and much different from our previous "Camino Frances" one. We've walked just about 600kms in 31days, from April 6th to May 6th, through two countries, Portugal and Spain.
This, the Camino Portuguese, was along, what felt like, a much less established route than the Camino Frances. The lack of suitable pilgrim accommodation, at reasonable distances, in many places was sometimes a problem. The constant cobbled roads and main road walking sections, particularly in Portugal were also very tiring, and sometimes rather scary.
But, the wonderful countryside and places, the cheerful and very friendly people, again particularly in Portugal, made it very enjoyable. Above all the fantastic pilgrims that you meet and get to know, if only for a very brief time, or in more depth, make the Camino a most memorable experience.
We've had a great, and most memorable, time.
Thanks for reading this blog and thanks for the comments either here on the blog or sent directly to me as emails.
Bye for now!
Tony and Barbara